Italian and more at Gables’ Il Corso (Miami Herald)
It’s hard to stand out in the crowded field of dining and drinking
establishments on Coral Gables’ Restaurant Row, so it’s not a surprise that
some newcomers struggle to find their identity.
Like a middle child born into a brood of popular over-achievers, the 6-month-
old Il Corso Trattoria is flanked on Giralda Avenue by longtime hangout The
Bar, with its stalwart stream of party-minded drinkers, and lively gastropub
The Local, with its adventuresome menu and craft beers.
Housed in the cavernous space formerly occupied by Archie’s Pizza, Il Corso
serves traditional Italian fare — pizzas, pastas, risotto and trattoria-style
entrees. But it tries to make everybody happy by throwing in barbecue and
buffalo chicken wings on its antipasti menu and including ubiquitous Miami
desserts like tres leches among its sweet endings.
An oversized, laminated menu with photos of dishes screams “budget,” but a
final bill of $200-plus for a group of four says otherwise.
The confusion continues on the plate. Our flat-iron steak, with cremini
mushrooms and four-cheese pasta, came out perfectly cooked and seasoned –
easily the best dish of the night. But a sauteed veal cutlet over truffle
cream baby spinach and angel hair …
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